![]() ![]() Initial Layer Height: 0.25mm ( I want to smash the first layer to the printbed) (must be enabled in Cura Setting Visibility) Here are my Cura Settings (Bold Items are the big takeways) Search for the setting you are looking for… Hover and click the gear in the Print Setup window. You will have to enable some hidden print settings in order to accomplish this. it’s simpler and it is what happens anyway. Originally I was using MM measurements for wall width, then I dug into shells. To get a 0.6MM Brass Nozzle to work well if this configuration you need to heat up the hotend or the retraction settings cause stringing. There is a bunch of mumbo-jumbo about math and wider line widths than the nozzle, forget all that. What you want is the settings I used, and why I used them and what the overall benefit is. As I increase the initial line width, the bottom layer improved but then I had issues with stringing because of retraction. I didn’t take pictures but as I do, I will post them. Initial prints of the Basic Stringing Test resulted in decent towers but loosely connected lines or gaps between lines on the bottom layer. It works for me and every time I upgrade to a new version I find they change some print settings and I wan’t to go back to printing territory. So my rig is a highly modified Creality CR-10 with upgraded Dual Z-Axis and kung-fu grip. But this time, I had to make it work and we all know, most everything on the Internet is a secret until you find it. What I had noticed is the bottom layer lines were not connecting. I had tried this before, but my heart wasn’t in it. When that happens, your out a lot of filament which equals money. sometimes they fail bad adhesion, failed flux capacitor or 3D Printer indigestion. The goal is to get a total print down to less than 24 hours and ramp up production. I also modified my Whiskey Stash V2 to “Version Steve” so it will print better and faster with a 0.6MM nozzle. 6MM nozzles so we can put some hustle behind this muscle. So I quickly ordered 2 Creality Ender 3’s (this is a great budget printer that has just the height required for my 105MM rounds) a bunch of Dikale Filament because is is relatively inexpensive and works well. I have a big order due the middle of next month and pretty sure they will go as fast as I can make ’em. Each one takes 2.5 days to print with 0.4MM. Surrounded by orders for the Whiskey Stash V2. and military stories start out like this. I’m military so I get to tell the story how I want. Recommended printing temperature range: ~250C-260C.– USED ENDER Printers back in stock! I’ve bought 3. Recommended printing temperature range: ~235C-245C. Recommended printing temperature range: ~220C-230C. With the X1, you will need to increase the temperature when printing PLA to ~220C-225C to compensate for the fast printing speed.įor each speed mode increase (standard to sport, or sport to ludicrous) you will need to increase the temperature 10-20c in order to melt the material fast enough for the extruder to keep up. PLA and PETG usually have a slight shine when printed at the correct temperature, but that shine turns to a semi-matte finish when printed at low temperatures.įor example, other printers can produce good printing results when using ~195C-200C for PLA because the filament has more time to melt inside the hotend before it is extruded. An easy visual indicator that you are printing a filament with a low temperature is the look of the external layer after the model has been printed. If you have some settings that worked great with another printer, that doesn't mean the same settings can be applied to the X1 as there are different temperature requirements when printing fast. ![]() They were tuned with Bambu Filament and we also made Generic profiles to serve as a starting point for other brands. Most of the printing settings included in the Bambu Studio slicer are carefully tuned to offer the best balance between printing speed and print quality. In this article, we will share a few recommendations for finding the correct slicer settings for printing fast while ensuring a good surface finish. But for consistent results, you might need to adjust the print settings based on the filament used. The X1 3D printers were made to break the printing speed barrier, and allow you to get your model as quickly as possible. ![]()
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